「醍醐灌顶」中的「醍醐」到底是什么东西?

资讯 2024-06-25 阅读:26 评论:0
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醍醐灌顶是一个汉语成语,读音为tí hú guàn dǐng,比喻听了高明的意见使人受到很大启发。也形容清凉舒适。出自《敦煌变文集·维摩诘经讲经文》:“令问维摩,闻名之如露入心,共语似醍醐灌顶。”——摘自百度百科

It's a Chinese word, it's pronunciation, and it's inspired by a metaphor for good advice. It's also a word for cool comfort. It's from the Talent V. Widmore: "Ask Widmore, as famous as his own."

虽然我从小一直在听这个词语,但从来没有人告诉过我,「醍醐」到底是什么东西。直到有一天我自己搜了一下……感觉发现了新的世界。

I've been listening to this word ever since I was a kid, but no one ever told me exactly what a twilight was until one day I searched myself and I felt like I had found a new world.

说到「醍醐」的来源,不得不提到我国古代的乳制品加工……对,你没看错,我国古代已经有很成熟乳制品加工工艺了。 ? 别不信,你看了下面对于「醍醐」的解释就明白了。

When it comes to the source of the ‘till’, it is necessary to mention our ancient dairy processing... Yes, you are right, our ancient dairy processing process is already mature. Don’t believe it, you can see the explanation of the ‘till’ below.

《涅槃经十四·圣行品》上有写醍醐的详细制作过程[1]:「从牛出乳,从乳出酪,从酪出生酥,从生酥出熟酥,从熟酥出醍醐,醍醐最上。」

The detailed production process in the "XIV. Christmas" is : "Break out of cow, cheese out of cheese, souffle out of cheese, souffle out of mating, soak out of ripe, soak out of ripe."

《唐本草》是这么说的[2]:「醍醐,生酥中,此酥之精液也。好酥一石,有三、四升醍醐,熟杵炼,贮器中,待凝,穿中至底,便津出得之。」

The Tang Bengrass says :, in solstice, in solstice, in solstice, and in solstice, three or four litres of solitude, ripe, in receptacles, to be condensed, to be pierced to the bottom.

《本草纲目·兽部》中也对醍醐有记载[3]:「色黄白作饼,甚甘肥,是也。酪面上,其色如油者为醍醐。」

It's also recorded in The Head of the Herbs, Department of Veterans [3] : "The yellow and white cakes are very fat, yes. On the face of the cheese, their colour is as good as the oil."

这样看来,描述醍醐有几个重点:生产工艺复杂,牛奶→「酪」→「生酥」→「熟酥」→「醍醐」,是乳制品中最最精华的部分;将「酥」加热之后冷却凝固。中间没有凝固的一小部分才是醍醐,得率很低,只有3-4%;「醍醐」的颜色是黄白色的,用来做饼很好吃,形态是油状半固体。

In this way, there are several points to describe: the complex process of producing milk and cheese and souffle and souffle, which is the most delicate part of dairy products; the cooling and cementing of the souffle when it is heated. The absence of a small fraction of the condensed in the middle is a very low rate of 3 to 4 per cent; the color of the soak is yellow and white and is good for making cakes, in oil-like semi-solid form.

好的,现在大家再来猜猜看,「醍醐」到底指的是什么东西?难道醍醐就是黄油吗?

All right, now let's guess, what the hell is "twigs"? Is "twigs" butter?

500

不,光回答「黄油」还不够准确。为了真正了解「醍醐」是什么,我们需要把「醍醐」的加工过程再详细说明一下。

No, the answer to "butter" is not precise enough. In order to really understand what a "podium" is, we need to elaborate on the process of "podium".

初步:从乳出酪

古人很早就发现,刚挤出的牛奶是不稳定的,只要静置一段时间,牛奶中脂肪会上浮,牛奶就会自动分层。由于生牛奶中细菌的存在,静置的过程中还会顺带着发生轻度的发酵,这种发酵有时给牛奶带来了更加醇厚的风味,有时也会导致牛奶凝结成块。这可能就是最早的「酪」的来历。

The ancients had long found that the milk that had just been squeezed was unstable, and as long as the fats in the milk were floating for a while, the milk would automatically be layered. Because of the bacteria in the raw milk, the static process would also be accompanied by light fermentation, which sometimes gave milk a thicker taste and sometimes led to milk condensing. This could be the earliest history of cheese.

500静置之后牛奶的自动分层现象,箭头所指位置为奶油和牛奶的分界线

古代做「酪」有很多种方法,比如《齐民要术》中记载,做酪时,需要先将生牛奶煮沸四五次,然后稍稍冷却,将凝固的奶皮取出做「酥」用。显然,煮制更有利于牛奶中乳脂的分层。最上面这层奶皮就是含有大量乳脂成分的「奶油」了。接着,剩下的牛奶在过滤之后,会接种之前做过的「酪」。之后再进行保温发酵,就得到了古人所称的「酪」的成品。

There are a number of ways to make "cheese" in ancient times, such as "Chimin Wants" which states that when making cheese, it needs to boil raw milk four or five times, then cool it a little bit, and then take it out for "souffle." Clearly, cooking is more conducive to the formation of milk. The top layer of milk is "create" containing a lot of milk. Then, when the rest of the milk is filtered, it is inoculated with "cheese" before.

从这里就可以看出,这个被称为「酪」的东西,加工工艺可能和今天的酸奶更为相近。

As can be seen here, the process of what's called "cheese" may be much closer to today's yogurt.

500

《齐民要术》还记载了「干酪」的制作方法:将做好的「酪」放太阳底下晒,表面一层晒干了就取下,继续晒,直到所有的「酪」都晒干为止。这样得到的「干酪」更像是奶干,而不是现在所说的「Cheese」。「漉酪」是将做好的「酪」用布过滤,把乳清滤出。这个过程有点像现在的「去乳清酸奶」。[4]

"Chimin Wants" also describes the way "cheese" is made: the good cheese will be sunned, the surface will be dried off, and it will continue until all cheese is dried. The "cheese" thus obtained is more like a dried milk than what is now called Cheese. The "cheese" will be filtered out with cloth. This process is kind of like the current "Down yoghurt milk" .

进阶:从酪生酥

前面说了,牛奶通过煮制再冷却的过程,可以获得一层奶皮,这层富含乳脂的「皮」就可以作为制作「酥」的原料。《齐民要术》还记载了一种制作「酥」的办法,就是将牛奶用木质杷子进行不断搅拌,击打,在这个过程中,牛奶也会快速分层。这时把上层奶油取出,也可以作为制作「酥」的原料。这种方法称作「抨酥法」。

As has been said, milk can be re-cooled by cooking a layer of skin, which can be used as a raw material for making souffle. A method of making souffle is also documented in the "Chimin Wants" which is to mix milk with woody twirls and beat it, during which milk can be rapidly layered. It can also be used as a raw material for making soy sauce.

得到了这些原料后,再进行加热,搅打或者剧烈摇晃,乳脂液滴就会发生碰撞,凝集,聚集成一体。经过过滤之后,奶油就会「变身」成为黄油(butter)。这样得到的粗制黄油就被古人称作「生酥」[4]

When you get these raw materials, you heat them up, stir them or shake them hard, and the milk droplets collide, condensate, and gather together. When you filter them, the butter becomes butter (butter). The crude butter that you get is called 500今天通过搅拌机搅打,可以快速让奶油变成黄油

黄油仍然含有少量水分,它们被包裹进油中,形成了「油包水」的结构。这也使得了黄油容易腐败变质,需要冷藏保存,而且尽快食用。除了水分之外,黄油还保存了一些蛋白质(准确来说应该是非脂乳固体)。别小看这些蛋白质,它们对于「醍醐」至高无上的风味形成起到了关键作用呢!

Butter still contains a small amount of moisture, which is wrapped in it and forms the structure of "oil-packed water". This also makes butter perishable, needs to be stored and consumed as quickly as possible. In addition to moisture, butter saves proteins (which should be non-fat-milk solids).

更进一步:从生酥出熟酥

将「生酥」在锅里加热,黄油中剩余的水分就会被蒸发,持续加热一段时间,黄油中的蛋白质会发生变性,沉淀,并渐渐变成棕色。这时候,把这些沉淀滤去,剩下的就是较为澄清透明的深黄色油状物质——古代称之为「熟酥」。

By heating the souffle in the pot, the remaining water in butter will evaporate, and it will continue to heat it for some time, and the proteins in butter will change, settle, and gradually become brown. At this point, filtering these sediments away is left with more clarity about the transparent matter of deep yellow oil, which the ancients have termed " ripeness ".

印度把这种东西称为「Ghee」,现代中文翻译应该是「印度酥油」。比起黄油来说,「印度酥油」由于水分更少,保存时间更长,不容易腐坏。所以比起「生酥」(黄油)更具有实用价值。

This is what India calls "Ghee," and the modern Chinese translation should be "Indian souffle." In comparison to butter, "Indian souffle" is more useful than "silent" because it has less water, is longer to save and is less prone to corruption.

500印度酥油(Ghee)

而且,比较有意思的是,在蛋白质变性沉淀的过程中,它也在发生着分解[5],分解的过程中会发生复杂的化学反应,蛋白质和黄油中剩余的微量乳糖也会发生美拉德反应,这些反应最终生成类似坚果一样的香气。这也给「印度酥油」带来了代表性的气味。

And, more interestingly, in the process of depositing protein variability, it is also decomposing , with complex chemical reactions during decomposition, as well as melladic reactions in proteins and the remaining trace of lactose in butter, which eventually produce odors similar to nuts. This also brings a representative smell of Indian syrup.

需要指出的是,这里的「印度酥油」跟西藏、蒙古等地区做酥油茶和酥油灯用的「酥油」不是同一种东西。后者实际上跟黄油更为相近[6]。如果在「熟酥」基础上继续加热,黄油会进一步变为褐色,这时我们就得到了西餐中非常常见的,具有浓烈坚果香气的「brown butter」[7]

It should be noted that the Indian souffle here is not the same as the souffle for tea and souffle lamps in Tibet, Mongolia, etc. The latter is actually closer to butter . If it continues to heat up on the basis of the souffle, butter will become brown further, and then we get what is very common in the Western meal, with the smell of "brunt butter" .

500法餐中常见的「brown butter」,法文称之为「Beurre noisette」最终成品:从熟酥出醍醐

「熟酥」经过冷却后,中间那一层没有来及凝固的液体就是「醍醐」[2][8]。其实这样看来,「醍醐」可能和「熟酥」之间没有本质区别,它就是「熟酥」还没有来得及凝固的一部分。或者,我们可以猜想,「熟酥」中也没有蒸发掉全部水分,由于印度酥油熔点比普通黄油更高,当温度下降时,那些水分含量少的部分会先凝固,中间水分含量较高的部分可能会凝固得稍微慢一点。

After cooling, the liquid in the middle, which is uncondensed and uncondensed, is [8] . In fact, there may be no fundamental difference between and auque, which is a part of the serenity that has not yet been condensed. Or, we can assume, because Indian smelting points are higher than ordinary butters, those with less water content will coagulate at a lower temperature, and those with a higher water content in the middle may coag a little slower.

500凝固之后的「印度酥油」,比普通黄油更加坚硬

说到这里,大家应该已经明白了:「醍醐」很可能就是「印度酥油」中水分含量比较多的那一部分。

In this case, it should have been understood that the term is probably the part of "Indian souffle" that has more water content.

总的来说,「醍醐」其实就是印度酥油。它和目前市面上的「无水黄油」很类似,但还是有一定区别的:无水黄油没有蛋白质反应的过程,所以它的味道主要还是奶香味,没有坚果风味。而「醍醐」在无水黄油基础上增加了蛋白质反应产生的坚果风味[9]

In general, the word "silk" is actually Indian butter. It is similar to the "waterless butter" in the current market, but there is a certain difference: the waterless butter has no protein reaction, so its smell is mainly milk fragrance and no nut flavour. And the "silf" adds the nut smell of the protein reaction on the basis of waterless butter .

500

这样的东西用来做成饼吃,和西餐用 Brown butter 做面包的吃法惊人的一致。这一定是欧亚大陆两端的不谋而合。李时珍爷爷很会享受啊。

Something like this is used to make cakes, and it's incredibly consistent with the way the bread is made in Western Brown butter. It must be the two ends of Eurasia. Grandpa Lee enjoyed it.

500印度 Dosa 卷饼配印度酥油500Brown butter 香蕉面包

总结

看到这里,你有没有一种醍醐灌顶的感觉?你还能直视「醍醐灌顶」这四个字吗?想象一下,有人用一大盆印度酥油浇你的头?估计在领悟智慧之前,你会感到有点饿吧。

See, do you feel like you're going to do it? Can you still look at the word "pump"? Imagine someone pouring a pot of Indian souffle on your head? You'll be hungry before you realize your wisdom.

作者:技术型吃货 来源:GAMECORES

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